Deepening the ‘WHY’
People ask how do I get up at 3:30AM to surf for a dawn patrol session? I tell them, “Remember that feeling when you were a kid and it’s Christmas Eve and you’re so excited to wake up the next morning? It’s like that. I just do it. I love it that much.”
No truer words have ever been spoken. Most of us can remember our first crush on a new watersport, whether it’s paddling, kiting or wing foiling, and how stoked we were going to bed, itching to get up the next morning and hit it … at first light, or mid-morning, afternoon or sunset. I’ve even dreamed of lighting my beach at night with flood lights so I could surf under the moon.
When we first begin a new activity, hobby or sport it's all-consuming.It’s a literal love affair of motion, learning and community. We can’t get enough of it. We weave it into conversations with total strangers, have endless discussions about equipment with like-minded friends, proudly wear apparel signifying our new love, dream out loud about massive lifestyle changes and become single-pointed in our focus about how, where and when we are going to surf, paddle, kite or foil.
It’s full on. There is nothing we can do to stop it. We must paddle out, rig it up, and get it going.
This issue of Standup Journal is dedicated to the deepening of the WHY we love watersports, a return to the roots and initial first blush of enthusiasm - or addiction - for what we enjoy. If there is one thing COVD19 has taught us it is to be grateful for our outdoor recreation and healthy lifestyle obsessions, brought on by needing to spend time on, near, or in the water. Perfect escape. Instant camaraderie. Organic physical distancing and an endorphin rush just when we need it the most. Thank Gaia we surf, and paddle, and kite or foil.
You’ll hear that rush of enthusiasm from multiple time world champion SUP racer Annabel Anderson in her article on “Why Paddling Matters More than Ever”. Costa Rica’s Blue Zone Surf & Foil Camp head coach Chase Kosterlitz writes about finding the freedom and flow of foiling, and celebrated trainer Suzie Cooney tells us how she rediscovers her ‘WHY’ in the midst of the global pandemic to pull herself out of depression and return to the ocean. You’ll definitely hear it in the laughter of waterman Chuck Patterson’s voice in “Winds of Change'' about how mastering a new watersport supercharged his stoke on a recent wing foiling trip to Baja, and in artist & champion SUP racer Sonni Honscheid’s inspiration behind her artwork where everything comes back to her love of the ocean. You’ll understand how surfer Dominique Miller overcomes the hardship of her youth in order to compete on both the APP and WSL World Tours, and how Gina Bradley of Paddle Diva rediscovers her love of nature by paddling through the pandemic in New York. It’s all so worth it.
Remember your first blush of love for your favorite watersport? What did it feel like? What did it look like in your life? Can we get back to that initial inspiration and frothing energy to hit the water and get to it? You bet we can. And we will.
Water people are a very special breed of souls whose enthusiasm is more infectious than any virus. Between these pages you will find multiple stories to put you back on the path to a happy, stoke-filled, water-soaked existence. Send us your stories, tag @standupjournal in your pix (#standupjournal, #promotethestoke) so we can share in your journey and become a part of YOUR tribe of water-tripping, laughing pals who can’t wait til the next wave comes. We gotta get up before dawn to make that happen. It’s time to get wet.
Aloha,