Part I, by Trevor McDonald
The heat is punishing, radiating off the granite walls like a furnace as I dangle 400 meters above the valley floor searching for my next hold. Below me, the Tsaranoro massif looms over the rugged Malagasy landscape—a place so remote it feels like the edge of the world. Sweat streaks down my face as I clip into a bolt, the only lifeline between me and the abyss. Every move demands precision, every second tests my nerves. This is Madagascar: raw, untamed, and relentless.
For our team, this journey isn’t just about climbing—it is about pushing limits, forging connections, and exploring a land that challenges you at every turn. From the bone-rattling roads to the towering granite faces and dense jungle canopies, Madagascar demands everything we have and then some.
When one thinks of “the ends of the earth,” Madagascar surely makes the list. Everything about the world’s fourth-largest island is exotic and intriguing: its endemic wildlife, breathtaking landscapes, and vibrant culture. Even its name conjures adventure.
In September 2024, a shared dream brought me and longtime friend, Jimmy Martinello, to this extraordinary land joined by two professional climbers and my daughter. Partnering with Arc'teryx, we were tasked with capturing authentic climbing moments and contributing meaningfully to the local communities we visited there. But the journey soon transformed into something far more profound—a story of connection, discovery, and the impact of giving back.
Granite Giants of Tsaranoro
Our adventure began in the Tsaranoro region, home to Africa’s tallest granite walls. The journey itself was an odyssey with two days navigating rutted, pock-marked roads to test our resilience. Yet, as we neared our destination, the sight of the towering Tsaranoro massif silenced us in awe. These sheer walls, painted with green and yellow lichen, are legendary among climbers, standing as giants in both scale and reputation.
Camp Catta, nestled at the massif’s base, became our sanctuary. Originally established by Michael, a French expat climber, the camp was a blend of rustic charm and comfort. Cold beers, French-inspired cuisine, and a crystal-clear “living pool” provided respite from the unrelenting heat. Michael now oversees the operation, continuing his family’s legacy of hospitality while fostering a unique connection between visitors and the Malagasy landscape.
Climbing these walls was as intense as it was exhilarating. Unlike Yosemite’s El Capitan, Tsaranoro’s faces are nearly devoid of cracks, requiring climbers to rely on tenuous holds and spaced bolts—nerve-wracking “run-outs” that raise the stakes. Our team pushed boundaries: Ines Papert and Paul McSorley tackled the iconic “Out of Africa,” while Jimmy and I explored shaded routes to capture dramatic images. Annabelle, my daughter, worked on multi-pitch climbing, growing in confidence with every ascent.
But our time in Tsaranoro wasn’t only about climbing. Our partnering brand had given us a unique mandate: to leave a lasting, positive impact on the communities we encountered. At Camp Catta, we partnered with locals to establish beginner-friendly climbing routes on a smaller cliff, equipping them with belaying skills and donated gear. What began as a technical exercise became a joyous cultural exchange. Watching community members embrace climbing—an activity they’d once observed from a distance—was the highlight of our trip. It wasn’t just about climbing walls; it was about breaking barriers.
Karst Towers and Northern Horizons
From the granite cliffs of the south, we ventured to the karst limestone towers of Jungle Park Lodge near Diego Suarez in the north. Here, the landscape transformed. Lush forests shaded vibrant rock walls, and baobab trees stood like ancient sentinels amid the greenery. The cooler conditions were a welcome relief as we explored the gymnastic climbing styles required by the three-dimensional karst formations.
This remote haven, created by visionary climber Mat Delac, was as much a masterpiece as the landscape itself. The lodge, with its pond-side dining and vibrant ambiance, blended seamlessly with its surroundings. Among the highlights were establishing new routes, including one we named “Flowy Chloe” after a spirited Frenchwoman who joined us. Local children were invited to climb alongside us, their laughter and enthusiasm reminding us of the universal joy of exploration.
The Barren Islands: A Vision for Community and Conservation
Our journey’s final chapter took us to the remote Barren Islands sixty kilometers off Madagascar’s western coast. This archipelago, with its white sand beaches and turquoise waters, felt like a dream. Here, we joined South African expat Dewald Pretorius who has been transforming this isolated paradise through sustainable ecotourism. Dewald’s camp, harmoniously integrated with the local fishing tribe, was a model of community collaboration. A water desalination system, employment opportunities, and education initiatives were all part of his vision to create a balance between conservation and livelihood.
While exploring the islands, we traded climbing for surfing and free diving, discovering untouched waves and vibrant coral reefs. Dewald’s passion for fishing proved contagious as we joined him in “popping” for Giant Trevalley, donating our catch to the village. Evenings were spent under starlit skies, sharing meals and stories with the community. Jimmy’s gift of soccer balls brought joyful chaos to the village with impromptu games connecting us across cultures and languages.
Leaving the islands was deeply emotional. The children gifted us handmade paddles—a heartfelt gesture that left us choked up. These moments encapsulated the essence of our journey: giving and receiving in equal measure, and creating lasting bonds with the people of Madagascar.
A Journey Beyond Adventure
Back in the capital, a final flight with Dewald’s bush pilot brought us back to where it all began. Over a shared meal, we reflected on the experience. We had set out to climb and capture Madagascar’s wild beauty, but we left with so much more including a profound connection to its people, landscapes, and the possibilities of meaningful exchange.
Madagascar’s magic lies in its contrasts. Its dramatic cliffs, lush forests, and azure seas are matched only by the warmth and resilience of its community. More than a climbing destination, it is a place that inspires a sense of shared purpose and wonder as a reminder of how adventure can bridge worlds.
- Trevor McDonald
Part II, by Jimmy Martinello
Upon leaving Madagascar to head back to Canada, I had already made plans to return. The crystal clear waters, pristine white sand beaches, unexplored surf breaks, and the incredible spirits of the Malagasy people with their warm smiles and incredible presence were rooted deep in my heart.
Nights out on the mystical paradise islands of the Barrens' gave birth to plans to return to this remote paradise while chatting with Dewald, Torrie, and the team. The initial visit only whetted our appreciation for everything Madagascar had on offer.
Dewald was excited to organize the trip of bringing in a solid crew of surfers after watching Trev and I catch a few of the ample waves surrounding the nine islands of the Barrens. The surfing potential is off the charts. Reefs circle all of the islands, and breaks form on every side depending on the swell direction. The result is peeling, glassy waves of all shapes and sizes offering maximum potential for excellent surf with not a soul in sight.
Once home again, it wasn’t hard to rally a crew to join the next adventure to Madagascar. After sharing my images and stories of these remote islands, my friends were already packing their bags.
Private planes were available to fly us out to the coast and open up unexplored and uncharted breaks, as well as give access to amazing diving and fishing. This next trip wasn’t a hard sell.
Six of my best buds were keen to jump on board the next quest. A surf odyssey to the far stretches of Madagascar with Jake Humphrey, Jon Burak, Damien Kelly, Ian Middleton, Dennis Flett, and Johnny Foon was bound to be an exceptional experience. Each of these athletes are experienced surfers and were super keen for the adventure.
It was only a few months later when my visions of returning were in full technicolor when our crew stepped off the plane in the capital of Antananarivo, Madagascar. It was another crazy dream come true as we packed our surfboard bags onto a truck and waved goodbye to them as the boards were on their own three-day voyage to the coast.
The following morning, the crew and I took off in two small planes that would facilitate our escape to the remote coast of the Barren Islands. Francois Grobler, Dewald's brother-in-law, was our guide. Francois was a lively host and had everything organized from our pick up at the hotel in the capital to organizing our boards’ transport to out to the coast as they couldn't fit on the small planes with the entire crew. Delivery of food supplies was coordinated via boat pick up and our accommodations were set for two weeks on the remote islands in Madagascar.
Francois is an impressive spirit, much like our bush pilot Torrie. Our boards made it to the island three days after we arrived. The journey for us to get there included non-stop off-roading with two drivers switching on and off to make the overland trek to the coast as quick as possible. The drivers had their own crazy adventure, crossing remote rivers, getting stuck in deep trenches, passing through small villages, pushing deep into land that few have stepped upon.
The Final Arrival
We arrived. Our boards had made it too. There were big smiles on everyone’s faces for facing a transcoastal expedition in its own right by traveling across Madagascar’s remote lands. I realized—again—the importance of having a great team in order to make spectacular events like this happen. It was important to let go of all expectations and believe in the process while collaborating moment to moment to make the best plans possible.
The sea was calm upon arrival with nary a wave in sight. The ocean reflected a mirror of glass shimmering in a turquoise of blue water. No words were spoken as our eyes shone with anticipation and delight. The crew received warm, kind welcomes from the local villagers who came out to greet us. After this brief moment of stillness, the journey unfolded into a wonderful couple weeks of adventure and celebration as we shared stories and new experiences while ample waves were ridden and new breaks were explored with the days ending by surfing into the dusk.
On that trip, our crew caught some of the best waves in recent memory. Together, we opened up new breaks, discovered areas of untouched magic in remote coves and along the coastline. All the while, we laughed out loud as we cheered each other on while carving through the crystal clear waters.
One of the best moments I remember was witnessing the locals experiencing these magical waves on the first day the swell started rolling in. Three local boys paddled out and caught their first rides that day. The moment is etched in my heart forever. I had left them a couple of boards on our first trip to the islands and it was a pleasure to see the boys playing with them and the fun they had.
Locals and our crew alike shared the incredible waves rolling in each day. Not only did we share waves, we also caught fish and shared them with the villagers. Our feasts often brought a broad mix of dancing and celebration to the island’s sunsets. Candice, Torrie's daughter, joined us there as well and she celebrated learning to surf as well as creating for us some incredible savory dishes. Every night, we sat around and shared stories while learning from Francois, Torrie and the local villagers about the wild local African and Madagascar history. These are moments that I will recall forever.
Reflection
Saying goodbye was difficult. I prefer to think of goodbye more as ‘See you later’’ or ‘I hope our paths cross sometime in the future’. A few special moments that stand out in my memory include five to ten kids jumping on my paddleboard and having the time of their lives jumping off into the water. There were evening soccer games, dancing and riding waves into the sunset.
These memories evoke a joy shared between good friends and new friends, as we became one big family uniting on a small slice of paradise in the middle of the Madagascar islands. After some discussion, both Jake and Johnny decided to leave their surfboards in order to outfit a few more villagers to have a go at catching waves. Also, we were able to allow a few more children to load up the paddle boards and keep these float-able rafts to jump off for the future. It was an emotional time for all of us as we waved our “See You Laters” and set off back to the mainland coast watching as the Madagascar islands faded away in the distance.
- Jimmy Martinello
