There are moments in my life when stand up paddling feels less like a recreational activity and more like a grand adventure.
There were the times I paddled on relay teams from Bimini to the Florida coastline, or the year when I entered the Rincon Beachboy SUP Race in Puerto Rico on a 8-10' swell. I’ve been out on the bay when a thunderstorm popped up and had to abandon my SUP and wait out the 30 knot winds and raining hail, and the time when I took on the challenge to paddle from Montauk to Block Island, a paddle over 18 miles of open ocean, for charity and a squall came up behind us. And not to be forgotten were the many years I raced down the East and Harlem Rivers and up the Hudson to navigate the currents, ferries, container ships and river flotsam for the annual SEA Paddle NYC around Manhattan Island. All incredibly high adrenaline, deeply memorable events.
And yet, paddling and camping for five days along the Sognefjord in Norway was—in some ways—one of my favorite paddle adventures ever. I mean, where else do you leave the comforts of civilization behind for six days, convince your legs that standing on an inflatable board for six hours a day is a reasonable life choice, attempt to sleep under a midnight sun that never quite sets in summer, or realize that carrying a dry bag full of gear uphill to your campsite at the end of a long day of paddling is as empowering as any of the wild excursions listed above?
On this most recent odyssey, there were moments as I paddled through Norway’s Sognefjord where I realized the entire experience was less about conquering the landscape and more about being humbled by it. In the end, when people ask me how my trip was, I answer by saying I’m a better person for it.
By definition a fjord is a long, narrow, deep inlet of the sea tucked between high cliffs, created when the ocean flooded a valley that had been carved out by the glaciers. Over 200 kilometers long and reaching depths of more than 1,300 meters, the Sognefjord is the largest and deepest fjord in Norway, a dramatic seascape carved by glaciers over thousands of years. The Naerofjord arm of Sognefjord, along which we traveled, is undoubtedly its most spectacular. Imagine towering mountains rising vertically from dark green waters, waterfalls tumbling down from sheer cliff faces like nature simply forgot to turn off the faucet and tiny villages dotting the shoreline between the hills, nestled at the bottom of snowcapped peaks, looking less like actual towns and more like something created specifically for a postcard.
The water, although protected by the cliffs on either side, can still catch the wind as it sweeps down the walls into the glacier valley. Most days, we experienced manageable-to-light winds and relatively calm waters; however, our mettle was tested on one long upwind grind when the wind picked up unexpectedly and turned the quiet waters into a maelstrom of breaking white caps all around.
This is the kind of place where even the most experienced paddler gets to feel like a beginner again. Which is exactly why SUP Norway brings people here.
SUP Norway’s Fjord Expeditions was founded by Titus Kodzoman, former Royal Marine, endurance paddler and slabby wave surfer, who knows each hidden cove, quiet inlet, and spectacular campsite along these majestic fjords. He created SUP Norway‘s expedition-style adventures to share what he had discovered by combining stand up paddling, wilderness camping, local culture sampling, and the simple joy of moving through water under your own power.
The itinerary sounds idyllic: paddling pristine fjord waters, experiencing the majesty of Western Norway’s breathtaking fjordland, camping beneath the mountains, sampling local delicacies (moose salami, anyone?), and experiencing this incredible UNESCO protected water region from the immediacy of paddling and sleeping under the stars. What could be better, right?
The reality? Also idyllic, but with more layers of clothing, occasional gear chaos, and at least one person dramatically questioning whether they packed enough socks (I didn’t). I had to borrow at least one sweatshirt and lay out my wet clothes over my tent each night in hopes of drying them before the next day’s travels. It was a learning experience.
Adventure also has a way of revealing your priorities. And somewhere between organizing dry bags and figuring out which waterproof jacket pocket contains your snacks versus your spork and aspirin, you discover that happiness on the fjords is measured in small victories.
Making it to the top of the fjord after a long, wild and windy leg.
A warm cup of coffee in the morning dew while sitting around last night’s smoking campfire.
Delight for the sunlight peeking out from the clouds and lighting up the fjord ahead.
Diving into the cold fjord waters after a long day of paddling.
The basic treat of—on occasion—pulling into a new campsite after the day’s paddle, and having access to a real shower (coins only for a few precious minutes!) and a flushable porcelain toilet instead of the ubiquitous grotty camp toilets most often found in wilderness camping.
The journey itself begins quietly. There is no stadium crowd to see you off, no starting line tape to run through, no official announcement that you have entered ‘expedition mode’. Once arriving at SUP Norway’s campground in Gundvangen, you are simply assigned a board, a tent, a gear bag, and offered the vast Norwegian landscape waiting ahead.
The first few strokes across the fjord are pure delight. The water sparkles in the morning light as the group launches after breaking camp in Gundvangen and loading the boards with carefully packed dry sacks for the days ahead. In front of you are towering rock faces, deep forests, and an abundance of waterfalls. Below you is that same landscape mirrored in endlessly deep green water.
It is easy to understand why Norwegians have such a strong connection to the outdoors. Their concept of friluftsliv—literally “open air life”—is not just recreation. It’s a philosophy. Time outside is considered essential for these people; a way to reconnect, recharge, and remember that humans are not separate from nature.
A SUP expedition on the Sognefjord is essentially a floating masterclass in friluftsliv.
Each day follows the rhythm of the water. Paddle. Explore. Eat. Laugh. Repeat.
Our expedition crew was an unlikely mix including seven adventurous Brits, six hearty Minnesotans, and our fearless guide, Laird Wharton, a Sweden-based Aussie endurance athlete, ultra trail runner and accomplished paddler who had swapped his usual playgrounds for a summer to be the lead expedition guide through Norway’s spectacular fjords.
It didn’t take long for Laird’s leadership to transform us from a group of individuals into an expedition team. Under his steady guidance, we quickly learned the rhythm of adventure: helping each other stay warm when the Nordic air turned cool, lending a hand with camp breakdowns or set ups, offering encouragement during long paddles, and celebrating the small moments that make remote journeys unforgettable.
Some of the best moments happened when we simply stopped paddling.
Floating along together beneath towering cliffs and roaring waterfalls, we would raft our boards together to share stories, swap snacks, and laugh as the mist from waterfalls enticed us to draw closer to the torrent. Moments like this reminded us again and again that this journey was about far more than reaching the next campsite.
Each day’s pace was intentional. This was not a race, and nobody was chasing a GPS trophy or trying to prove they could out-paddle a Norwegian fishing boat. The goal was to move together, absorb the landscape, and savor every stroke in one of the most breathtaking places on Earth.
The fjord rewards that kind of curiosity and slow rhythm.
Another waterfall tumbles down the mountain from a looming peak around the next bend, and suddenly everyone is paddling towards it. A seal is spotted in the near distance poking its head up above the surface to take us in. A near-vacant village appears as a perfect rest stop for a mid-morning coffee or tea. The quiet rocky cove offers shelter from the wind for a moment, followed by a team-based decision on where we should land that night based upon current water conditions and paddler energy. We became a unit, thinking more about the health of the group as a whole than about individual choices or wants. The goal was to have an extraordinary experience together. Everyone was counted every day in that equation.
It was never about the miles. It was about the experiences we shared along the way.
Camping along the shoreline of the fjord adds another dimension to the expedition. There is something primitive about arriving on a remote shoreline with everything needed strapped to your board. Your tent, sleeping gear, food and clothing choices are all part of the gear loaded on your Red Paddle excursion board each day. Every item holds a purpose. Every ounce matters. That dry bag had better be closed.
The Brits were from York, England. These six amazing women and their paddle coach Danny Godridge, owner/founder of SUP Active Yorkshire, always won the most-useful-packed-item award at every stop. Out from their drybags come steel YETI mugs, ready for their afternoon ‘cuppa’. Matching changing robes emerge for the donning of swim suits for an afternoon dip in the fjords. These women are relentlessly efficient, wholly welcoming, funny AF, and tirelessly social. On the American side, our six Minnesotans include four nurses from the Mayo Clinic (we were in good hands!) who are a younger generation full of spunk and good fun. The laughter and entertainment between these two groups is constantly warm and wildly funny. I know by day two that I am going to miss them all once we land in Flâm.
The reward for each day is this: once camp is established at the end of the day’s paddle, any need for effort essentially disappears. The payoff is sitting beside the fjord as evening settles, watching as the water becomes perfectly still. The sky changes colors. Conversations become deeper.
Laird and Danny somehow continually surprise us with special treats they’ve been paddling around in their dry sacks for days on end: a traditional Norwegian campfire dinner of Grillpølse (or grilled Norwegian sausage) wrapped in a Lompe (a soft potato flatbread) and Pinnebrød (a simple bread dough wrapped around a stick and baked over the fire until golden). There was a surprise special breakfast of scrambled eggs, avocado, orange juice and pastries. Meals would see everyone gathered around the campfire for hours—a simple tradition called bålkos for “campfire coziness”—reflecting Norwegians’ emphasis on enjoying nature and spending time together. This intentional time spent gathering for meals, forgetting about phones, schedules, and the endless digital noise waiting back home, manifested in some of the more delicious moments of the trip.
Dinner tastes infinitely better outside. Coffee is a delicious reward after paddling all day. Stories become funnier when everyone is slightly tired and wearing questionable layers of technical clothing.
And then there are the mornings.
Waking up beside the Sognefjord feels almost unfair to the rest of the world. You unzip your tent, step outside, and immediately wonder why every morning can’t begin with mountains reflected over clear water along shorelines replete with herds of goats and waterfalls in the distance. There is no one there but your expedition team. The fjord is yours again for these exquisite hours.
Of course, Norway also has a reputation for reminding visitors the fjord is actually in charge.
The weather can change quickly. A sunny morning can become a windy afternoon. Cold water is always underfoot, offering paddlers a direct reminder to respect the environment and remember what they are doing at all times. Proper preparation, safety awareness, and SUP Norway’s local knowledge of hidden coves and campsites are essential. This is where an experienced guide like Laird makes all the difference.
On our second evening, we discover a thunderous waterfall immediately adjacent to our campground for the night. Laird leads those interested in a spontaneous climb up the rocks alongside the powerful falling water to witness it more closely, but makes the wise decision that we leave it entirely alone (no swimming!) as the ferocity of the water’s rush is uncontrollable and one wrong move could be disastrous. On another day, he leads the group on a rocky climb to the top of one tall mountain for a spectacular view of the entire fjord. The whole group is ecstatic. In addition, there are numerous fjord antics at the campsites, practicing balancing moves on the boards above the cold water in the evening, laughing when falling in and delighting in the refreshment of a cold dip. But hair must be dried, and layers donned as night brings a cool breath to the campsite after dinner.
SUP Norway’s expertise transforms the fjord from a beautiful destination into an accessible adventure of a much more personal nature. Their guides’ knowledge of conditions, routes, camping locales and local culture allows paddlers to experience the land and waterscapes safely while still maintaining a deep feeling of exploration and wonder.
Because the best adventures are not about eliminating uncertainty; they are about embracing it responsibly.
During our last paddle strokes along the water heading to our final destination of Flâm, something unexpected happens. The fjord that initially felt enormous begins to feel familiar. The group of once strangers have forged strong friendships. The beaches hold our memories. The route becomes a collection of moments rather than merely miles crossed.
This is the magic of traveling by paddle. You do not simply pass through a landscape. You become part of it.
The Sognefjord doesn’t need to be conquered. It does not need another person standing on a paddleboard claiming victory over its wild expanse. It simply invites you to slow down, enjoy the spaces, the people you are journeying with and appreciate the privilege of moving quietly through one of the most spectacular places on Earth.
And if you happen to end the day exhausted, slightly damp, and wondering why you packed three shirts but only one pair of dry socks?
Congratulations.
You are doing adventure correctly
