At the beginning of the year, Frenchmen Ben & Mat Carpentier took flight to South Africa. Their goal was to explore the eastern coast of the country, score some epic waves along the way and meet up with Manuel, an Italian adventurer and longtime friend, who had crossed Africa alone on motorbike from Mella Nador (Morocco) to Cape Town (South Africa).
What does South Africa mean for us?
My brother Benoit and I decided to go to South Africa in order to explore world renowned point breaks: J-Bay, Victoria Bay, Still Bay. We also wanted to witness the untamed wilderness of the area and see sharks, elephants and lions. We were drawn to the country’s elegant nature including the famed Cape Town cliffs and national parks as well as the experience of South Africa’s beautiful warm water and air. Arriving from French Brittany, we felt fully ready to explore this habitat which is a mecca for many surfers.
In short, we were on the hunt for adventure, and excitement.
Once any traveler has established the intention for where they are going and what their purpose is for venturing there, the next important question is what kind of gear do you bring to maximize fun and walk the adventurous path?
After serious discussion, we decided: “SA here we come!” Our quiver would include: 3 Starboard SUP Surf Pro (7’4 prototype for Ben; 7’4 for Mat & 7’7 for Manu), 1 SUP Foil Hypernut 6’10, 4 paddles and 3 shortboards. We also deemed it necessary to bring an inflatable board for deeper adventuring. We got lucky. Starboard was able to send us a 10’x35’x5,5’ Whopper Zen inflatable SUP.
With our quiver established, we were ready to:
Explore flat waters as in lakes and rivers; “Oui, oui!”
Get barrelled and surf small beach breaks; “Yep bro”
Take on the best point breaks of the country from three-foot to double overhead: “Yesss bru!”
Arriving in Cape Town airport, we were on point and ready to begin one epic journey.
We quickly discovered that South Africa is big. Much bigger than we expected. We only had seventeen days on the Madiba, or mother-land, which is not enough to see the entire country. When we arrived in Cape Town, we already knew we might not make it farther than Jeffrey’s Bay which was 700KM to the east. We were fine with that. Our goal was to find epic waves. We had no doubt, we would succeed.
And score we did. Six months after coming back home, we are still amped out of our minds about our discoveries in South Africa’s glorious regions including great - if not the best - waves we’ve ever surfed in our lives, plus the incredible wilderness, mesmerizing landscapes and inspiring people we met.
This rest of the story is told through Ben’s eyes.
Mathieu Carpentier
South Africa had been on my mind for several years. However, it’s quite far from where we live in France’s Brittany and more expensive than any other European destination. If you are planning to go, make sure you have a solid traveling crew of your best mates and a good three weeks on the ground. Early in 2018 was finally my best opportunity to launch this expedition. I had no APP surf contest happening at Sunset that same month, my brother Mathieu was available and we both wanted to head to South Africa and meet up with his best friend Manu who’d moved to Cape Town six months prior.
Cape Town
We arrived in Cape Town on Feb. 24th, 2018 in the evening and met Manu on his motorbike.
After our first night, a bit ragged on the canapés from Manu’s roommate, we woke up and began our journey with a short walk in the city. We wanted to see Manu’s everyday life including the surf school where he works and his local surf spot. When we arrived, a local surfing contest was running. The kids rip in Cape Town! Everywhere, there were wooden signs warning of “Shark” at every entrance to the beach.
Gansbaai & Great White Sharks
We journeyed on. Two hours before sunset, we arrived in Gansbaai and immediately began looking for waves. Soon, we found a beautiful bay with strong swell lines that looked incredible for the foil. However, it turned out it was within a protected natural area and there was a fee to get in. Too complex for our first session. Kinda risky too with the memory of those “Shark” signs posted on the beach in Cape Town. Instead, we decided to rent an AirBnb for the night in front of a small harbor where all the shark diving boats launch for the open sea packed tourists. People pay to go look at Great White sharks in Cape Town. A lot of people.
Early the next morning, we watched the boats full of tourists head out in search of the sharks. We began a new wave check but, truthfully, after seeing that heavy activity surrounding sharks in the area, we agreed it might be better to continue our journey East.
Still Bay & Jongensfontein
Our next stop was Still Bay, a three-hour drive from Gansbaai. Still Bay is a small town located along a wide river mouth. When we first arrived, the light was beautiful. The water held turquoise reflections.
Now, we wanted to surf! Manu directed us to follow a road to the first surf spot. It was a right-hand point break, however that day, it was too windy and super small. We thought around the corner there might be some wind protection. So, we continued along the dirt road to the end where we came upon a small bay. There, we could see a surf break that was firing! Or so we thought. Upon closer inspection, it looked better from afar. Onward.
Back in the car, we decided to see Jongensfontein, a village nearby where another surf spot was alleged. What we had heard was the main break at Jongensfontein was slow and lacking power, but at this point, we were ready to try anything. So, we followed a small road and lucked out to find a spectacular beach with a working point break. Five minutes later, we were surfing Finally, our surf trip had started!
After getting ourselves surfed out, we decided to book an AirBnb in the area. We wanted to spend a few days exploring this beautiful break. A short time later, we were all packed in a small studio just 500 meters from the wave, facing the sea.
Over the next few days, we were stoked to discover great SUP surf and regular surf sessions on this delicious beachbreak and point break. There was never any one else around. On the second day, while filming Mathieu with the drone, I was horrified to see a huge dark mass swimming right next to him. Ultimately, it is only a ray, but it offered a good reminder to keep our heads on a swivel in this part of the world. We scored some good waves on Still Bay point break during our stay in the area. Luckily, when we came across a few locals, they could see we were respectful guys and they welcomed us on their waves with a smile. Before heading East, we took time to shoot some great footage with the inflatable SUP board on the river mouth.
Victoria Bay’s Wilderness
Our next stop was Victoria Bay, another famous right-hand point break. Upon our arrival, we rented another AirBnb fifteen minutes further on the road toward Victoria Hills. Our host? A twenty-year-old lass in charge of renting a nice studio. There was only one room and no wall to separate the shower, toilet, and sleeping area from the living room. Strange but funny! The girl let us know after showing us the flat, "Don’t hesitate to come see me if you're cold at night". Wilderness hospitality!
We spent four days discovering incredible waterfalls and waves that had meaning. This area is named the “Garden Road” and it is easy to understand why. There’s green everywhere. It is hard to imagine that just a few hundred kilometers west in Cape Town, the community is living with strict regulations on every day water usage. Our days were spent shooting great pictures, flat water paddling and surfing. Victoria Bay is an amazing spot. Surf or SUP, the waves fit all the different kinds of boards we brought. Plus, the area was surrounded by high cliffs that were utterly mesmerizing. We got some excellent footage.
Jeffrey’s Bay & Cape St Francis with a stop at Bruce’s
After four days in Victoria Bay, we moved on. It was time for us to venture towards two of South Africa's legendary spots: J-Bay and Cape St. Francis. There, we hoped to witness the perfectly designed southern swell and hypnotizing wave action, famously filmed in The Endless Summer, at a legendary pointbreak called Bruce's.
Arriving close to the break with two hours before sunset, we realized the tide was too high for the wave to break properly. But, we saw the potential. A few hundred meters inside the bay, we could see kayakers and prone paddlers having a blast on what looked like really long and fun rides.
On the pier, the optimal spot for wave patrolling, I could see this wave was perfect for foiling! Long lines, one after another, some waves breaking while others didn’t, but they rolled for a couple hundred meters. Mathieu filmed while I foiled my first few waves waiting for the tide to drop. We were so excited to see how that famous wave works. The ambiance in the water was so good. People were super cool sharing waves, talking and greeting each other. I shared waves with prone paddlers and double kayaks while watching the sun go down.
Just before dark, I joined Manu and Mat at the famous "Bruce’s". There was still too much water on the break, but sometimes beautiful waves rolled in and broke along the reef. I came out of the water and, while dismounting the foil, watched incredible sets breaking one after the other. Each one perfect. Tubular. It was beautiful and mesmerizing. After, we packed our equipment into the rental car, we took off in the direction of J-Bay, a thirty minute drive from Bruce’s.
The Legendary Jeffrey's Bay
When we arrive in J-Bay it was already dark. Our new hosts, Louis and his wife Marie, welcomed us warmly. During the next week at their house, we came to know this amazing couple. Louis and Marie are two super nice pensioners, living in a large house with a rental on the property. Their son, his wife and their grandchildren used to live there. But, once the son found work in New Zealand, his whole family left. We found out that had happened nor so long ago. In fact, we later learned that we were their first AirBnb clients.
As the week continued, we became closer to them. By the end of our stay there, this nice couple insisted on preparing our breakfast for us and even invited us to stay for lunch and dinner. Amazing people. "I have three new sons," Marie told us several times.
But, let’s talk about that wave: Things get serious at J-bay. In the water, you can feel the energy of the waves. In the water, you quickly identify the locals. There is a hierarchy in the lineup and you’d better understand that in order to respect it. There is some tension at the main peaks and it escalates when the waves are firing. But, like most places, if you show you can surf and are respectful, then you get your waves and enjoy the spot! J-Bay is worth it, without any doubt. The wave is truly magical. A good surfer can do and find everything on this wave. It is “a gavade”.
J-bay also represents the opportunity to meet people from around the world. The place is so famous that surfers from all over the planet go there on a surfing pilgrimage. Manu was in contact with an Italian surf instructor, Giulia, who was working there. One night, three days after our arrival in the city, we met up with Giulia and her friend Olga from Ireland. From this point on, we were a pack of five and got in some really good surfing, exploring & chill time with both of them.
Sometimes, the wind blows side onshore at J-Bay and that’s a good reason to explore the area. On Day 5 in J-Bay we went back to Saint Francis where we knew there was a beach break & point break combo near the lighthouse. It’s called Seal Point. Over there, we found translucent waters and crazy good waves. The following days went like this: surf in the morning in J-Bay before heading to Seal Point for the afternoon. We were truly living the surfer’s dream.
Day off - Addo Elephant Park & last Day in J-Bay
“When you go to South Africa you must visit a wildlife natural park.” We always to listen father talks. One day, we decided to check out Addo Elephant Park, one of the largest elephant parks in South Africa. This was an incredible experience watching some of the largest living animals on our planet in their natural habitat. We saw elephants, buffalos, antelopes, hyenas, zebras and lynx, but no lions or giraffes. A next!
On our last day in the area we decided after our morning and afternoon surf routine to drive the car east of J-Bay where we had heard about these huge sand dunes at the Gamtoos river mouth. There, we stand up paddled in a beautiful passage. The lights and landscape with the sun setting on the sea was so incredible. Mat wanted to drone some footage, and he got amazing shots, but it was also kinda stressful. There were so many seagulls around the drone!
Back to Cape Town & Final Hours in South Africa
Time was getting close to the end of our South African journey. Our return flight was in three days so it was time to return to Cape Town. However, this time, we had new friends. The girls wanted to visit the city, so they came with us! On the road trip back, we stopped for a day at Victoria Bay as we heard the forecast was great. But the waves were not mentionable. Then, it was our final night with our last Braai - or South African Barbecue - with the girls. Early the next morning, we hit the road for Cape Town.
After a long drive full of adventures including a flat tire repaired “à l’Africaine”, almost running out of gas, stopping in a “really dangerous place” as we found out from the police guys, we finally made it to Muizemberg in time for an incredible sunset over the Cape of Good Hope cliffs.
The 14th of March was our last day in Africa. We had a busy day planned to make the most of it. Our goal? To climb Table Mountain, see Cape of Good Hope, surf, film Manu with his motorbike, return the inflatable SUP board to our Starboard representative, meet with friends, pack our stuff and get to the airport. Quite a day!
We woke up early while the sky was still dark. In the backpacker, the girls were waiting. After a one-hour drive, we arrived at the head of the trail that leads to the top of Table Mountain. The others wanted to hike and climb. I chose to utilize the cable car. Afterall, it was nearly impossible to put my shoes on after the cut I got in my last session at J-Bay.
Once at the top of Table Mountain, we couldn’t see any farther than a few meters. It was too cloudy. But, even though the view isn’t great, the way up seemed to have been worth it. All four of my companions were smiling but also wet, as if they’d swam a lake. The girls explained that it was a real leg burner.
Our next stop was Cape of Good Hope. This piece of land is where two oceans, the Atlantic and Indian, meet. There was so much mist, we were barely able to distinguish it from the road. We didn’t care. Another good reason to come back!
On the return to Cape Town, we made the most of the beauty within the area to film Manu riding his motorbike. We did find some good-looking waves, but every time we chose not to enter the water because of that eerie sharky feeling. We kept saying it was going to be better down the road. Also, we know that the Atlantic Ocean had water temperatures around 7°C while on the Indian Ocean, it’s closer to 20°C.
At the Muizemberg beach break we found small waves but warm water! Mat surfed the inflatable SUP board, Manu wanted to SUP surf. I chose the best tool ever, my SUP foil. On my way up the beach, I had a random encounter. There, suddenly, was Thomas King, a fellow APP SUP surfer with his toddler. We said hello and he told me that his wife, Tarryn, is in the water, He joined us when she got out of the water to watch the baby. It was great to see them!
Final Reflections
I find it hard to write any final words about this journey. South Africa, like Africa in general, is a land of contrast and contradictions. For surfing, it is an incredible trip with splendid landscapes, sick waves and amazing people to meet along the way. And, it is also a place where you’ll find moments of high stress. I personally didn’t always feel safe in South Africa, especially close to the cities where some of those contrasts sit side by side: rich, opulent wealth next to extreme poverty. Often, only a road separates one from another.
The tension between blacks and whites still exist in this apartheid country. The impression given is that blacks do the work while whites - who are rich - benefit from the system. I made special note that, for the entire trip, I never saw any white person with a non-white. They do not mix. The standard of living is either one side or the other. There seems to be no middle ground.
The water problem in Cape Town also touched me a lot. There is a real crisis happening here! Individuals in Cape Town are required to live daily life on a ration of only 20 litres of water per day. And the crisis continues to grow. It is extremely worrisome!
Written by, Benoit Carpentier
