Over the past several years, I’ve traveled the world in search of stunning beaches, beauty, adventure, and incredible waves. This year I told myself that I would also plan my trip with a conscious effort to improve my performance in the surf and visit a spot that would allow me to practice my surfing every single day. The requirements were simple: warm water with consistent, quality waves and a new country to discover.
Stand up paddle surfing is challenging to learn. Without the opportunity to spend regular hours in the water day after day, it is difficult to improve to the level I expect of myself. After some research, Tom and I decided that El Salvador would be an excellent destination to allow me to improve my skills in the water while exploring a new, exotic landscape and culture that neither of us knew a lot about.
Volcanoes, Swell & Civil War: El Salvadore’s Dramatic History & Landscape
Nestled between Guatemala and Nicaragua on the Pacific coast of Central America, El Salvador’s coastline is a dream for surfers. Offering plenty of southern exposure, its volcanic geology creates a bounty of world-class right-hand point breaks that are along El Sal’s 300km of coastline.
Prior to booking my trip, I hadn’t heard much of El Salvador. I probably wouldn’t have been able to pin it on a map. Little did I know, I’d been dreaming about these lands since I was a child. Did you know that El Salvador’s stunning landscape and volcanoes were the inspiration for the Prince´s planet in Saint-Exupéry’s classic “The Little Prince”?
The country’s geological activity was notable throughout our entire trip. Views of beautiful volcanoes abound, and are visible from every vantage point. There were plenty of opportunities to see smoke rising from still active volcanoes. A few of these slumbering leviathans even act as lighthouses and have been used for naval navigation in years past.
We recommend visiting El Salvador’s natural hot springs bubbling up out of the volcanoes. This is an incredible experience and relaxes the muscles after a week of stand up paddle surfing. You know you’re going to need it! Tom and I took advantage of this geologic activity on a daily basis as much of the country’s power is generated by geothermal activity.
A Challenging Past, A Welcoming Present
El Salvador’s rough landscape has played an important role in the country’s challenging past. Very little colonial architecture survived the seismic activities of these last few centuries. However, the volcanic eruptions also miraculously preserved ancient Mayan ruins in El Salvador’s version of Pompeii. These ruins are incredible to witness and can be visited at Joya de Cerén, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. When discovered, it was the first Mayan archeological site of an entire village, where it is now possible to get a glimpse of their everyday life. This is quite different from the Mayan temple tours which have been the only other Mayan remains discovered until now.
#dontskipElSalvadore
Many tourists traveling through Central America tend to avoid El Salvador due in part to its reputation of having a violent history of civil war which erupted in the country in the 1980s and early 1990s. Although now in a time of peace, relics of the war are still visible, with bullet holes and explosion sites apparent in buildings throughout the country. The boiling cauldron of tempered heat is also felt when witnessing the quantity of armed security guards at every parking lot, grocery store, and bank. At first, this may seem alarming to visitors, but they are considered synonymous with security and are a part of everyday life for Salvadorans.
Memories of civil war are still fresh in the minds of Salvadoran people, who are very proud to be living in this time of peace and prosperity. Today, they are excited to share their country after enduring such a violent history. The hashtag #dontskipelsalvador invites tourists to discover everything that the country has to offer. Those lucky travelers that do visit are treated not only to its bounty of waves, but also to this Central American country’s rich archaeological history, colourful cities, countryside villages, artisanal crafts, thriving art, bustling markets, and a chance to discover its friendly, welcoming population.
Among various tourist trips being offered in El Salvador, one of the most popular is the Ruta de la Paz (Route of Peace). This tour will take visitors through the war-torn countrysides, jungles, and towns, guided by former guerilla warriors who offer first-hand accounts of their personal histories fighting for peace.
Punta Roca: El Sal’s Gold Coast
El Salvador’s short 300km of coastline is small in size, but its southern orientation means the country is dotted with world-class point breaks. The famed Punta Roca coast sets the stage for a host of international surf competitions, and many other waves draw North American and South American surfers looking to escape the crowds of nearby Costa Rica and Nicaragua.
At the heart of the La Libertad region is El Tunco, the country’s surfing hotspot. It is also home to the extremely consistent wave known as El Sunzal. Arriving in El Tunco, my first impression was of a typical backpacker/party/surf town, with pumping music on the beach and the cerveza flowing freely at all times of day. This is a perfect venue for the glassy, right-hand peelers rolling down the beach. El Sunzal is a gorgeous setup for longboarders and SUP surfers. Tom and I quickly discovered that the best place to be was in the water.
Chicken Bus and No Bikinis
Although we were not big fans of El Tunco itself, its location is central to a myriad of waves dotting the coastline. Hopping on a “Chicken Bus”, with boards in tow, we found a wide variety of waves within a 5-10 minute ride. The buses in El Sal are converted yellow school buses, each distinctly painted in bright colors, blasting great music, and always crowded with people and animals. We learned that hitch-hiking and hopping into the back of a pick-up truck was a common practice among locals. This turned out to be an even better way to get around
As Tom & I got to know the other beaches around the Tunco area, we were intrigued to see that almost all Salvadorans would enter the ocean fully dressed, no matter their age. Long shorts that go past the knees paired with an oversized t-shirt was the most common beach attire. No bikinis to be found here. This came as a complete shock considering the soaring temps of this tropical country and a stark contrast to what we expected from a Latin American beach scene. As we eventually learned, El Salvador’s Catholic history plays a very strong role in today’s culture which explains why a bikini or board shorts were almost unheard of outside the more touristy El Tunco beach.
The Wild East: Gulf Fonseca
Having visited many countries with my paddleboard and knowing the reputation of our sport is not always welcomed at every wave, the first thing I did when we flew down to El Salvador was get in touch with a local SUP surfer. I wanted to get some insider information as to which waves are a no-go for SUP Surfers and where we would feel most comfortable. This is how we met Josselyn Alabi, the top female SUP surfer in the country. She welcomed us to El Salvador with open arms and was our local guide to the spots around La Libertad.
After a week of surfing in La Libertad and hearing talks of a monster swell on the horizon, we decided it was time to pack up in search of new waves. At six in the morning, the boards strapped to the roof of our rental vehicle, together with Josselyn we headed toward the “Oriente Salvaje”, the Wild East.
When looking at a map of Central America, the Gulf of Fonseca is what separates El Salvador from Nicaragua, together with Honduras on the inside of the Gulf. We heard whispers of a secret wave that forms only when a huge south swell wraps around into the Gulf. This is where we headed.
One of the peculiarities about waves on the Gulf of Fonseca is that it is not a dawn-patrol spot, as the waves are usually blown out by the Papagayo winds that stream in over Lake Nicaragua. These winds usually drop off in the early afternoon to allow the surf to stay glassy the rest of the day. As we were travelling with our windsurf sails as well, these winds were an extra motivation to check out the spot.
Find Your Spot & Fit In: Progression in the Swell at Las Flores
As often happens with our sport, frustration manifests itself in different ways. Not only when you don’t catch waves, but also when you can’t find them. The “mystical wave” turned out to be a messy knee-high break. What a disappointment! As we waited to see whether the mystery swell would eventually build, after a few hours it was decided to cut our losses and head for more exposed waves around El Cuco, about 45 minutes to the west.
Pulling up to Las Flores, it was clear the swell had arrived. Before our eyes was a natural wonder. A perfect right-hand point break, walling up and barreling over a volcanic-sand bottom, set in the most beautiful and photogenic shoreline imaginable. This was a treat to feast our eyes upon. The wave began in front of a rocky point topped with palm trees behind which the sun was hiding, turning every sunset into an orange sky. The rays and light escaping through the vegetation reflected in the few creases on the glassy water. It was magic. You know that feeling of being inside a movie? This is how we felt in Las Flores.
As it turned out, not only had the swell arrived, but it had brought with it dozens of top-level surfers and photographers to tear up the endless walls and barrels that were consistently marching in. It was a true show of human versus nature. I didn’t dare enter the water for the first 2 days and my frustration grew as the massive waves kept rolling in while I was unable to take advantage of them. Eventually, as the swell started to fade, and with it the crowds, we were left to enjoy this beautiful spot which still delivered a perfect head-high wave walling up and peeling down the beach for over 300 meters.
Las Flores Resort: Tiered Lodging for Surf Travelers
As we discovered, not all of the beaches of El Salvador’s “Wild East” are as remote and virgin as imagined. The hills around Las Flores are dotted with houses and hotels. Fortunately, most of these are built with respect for the stunning landscapes that encased them and many paid homage to El Salvador’s surfing roots. This is in evidence at Las Flores Resort, a high-end hotel located directly in front of this perfect right hand wave and which caters to a surfer’s every need. They have board racks, run boat trips to nearby breaks, and even offer breakfast at 5am for those in need of energy before heading out for a dawn patrol session!
On the other end of the scale, there are rooms available for rent which are equivalent to sleeping in a cement bunker directly on the beach. Worn out mattresses, barely a trickle of water coming out of the shower, and plenty of thirsty mosquitoes don’t deter the masses here. After all, whether staying in a five-star luxury hotel or at the surf-bum special, everybody gets to ride the same perfect waves.
Frustration to Progress: Las Flores Delivers
I improved so much, so quickly in Las Flores. After all the travel delays, surf trials, falling, giving up, fighting currents and exhaustion, all combined with sleepless nights due to thirsty mosquitoes, the magic of learning after not giving up began to sparkle.
I became more comfortable in bigger waves. My confidence grew. I learned to trust my lungs. I learned that I can take off on a wave when it’s big, and that my lungs will hold more oxygen than I thought when I wiped out. I learned the timing necessary to avoid the impact zone when paddling out, and how to use the currents in my favor.
I learned that everybody belongs in the water, and that even though I was surfing on a SUP, with care and respect I would earn my position in the lineup. There were even a few shouts from the surfers! Shouts of cheering and encouragement, that is. The three of us transformed any frustrations into the radiant energy of achieving daily goals. Without a doubt, each of us was growing.
After weeks of surfing and developing new skills every day, it was time to leave Las Flores behind to head 30 minutes west to El Salvador’s most famous barrel, Punta Mango. Getting barreled is a big step up, but you have to start somewhere. Little by little, Tom & I began to take our first baby steps toward this direction.
Barrels and Rocks. Getting in Position at Punta Mango
With its difficult road access, Punta Mango is a much more remote beach than Las Flores. Most surfers arrive by boat, and only spend 2-3 hours in the water in the early mornings. It was common for us to have the waves to ourselves, sharing with just a few local kids every day after the tourists left for breakfast.
The Rancho, our accommodation, was very “roots”. Moldy, muddy, humid with plenty of scorpions, snakes, and spiders, it was exactly what we were looking for. As we made our way down the dewy cliff in the morning sun, we would watch perfect empty waves down below. That view was enough to keep us happy all day!
At Punta Mango, I discovered I needed to overcome another fear: rocks. The drop on this wave is mere meters away from barnacle covered rocks. When the wave broke, it was heavy. My fears were not unfounded. Eventually, with Tom’s help and patience, I began to position myself deeper and deeper under the lip of the incoming wave. I was tired of missing waves by paddling on the shoulder where I felt ‘safe’, and I learned that - at a break like Punta - it was all about commitment and confidence.
There is a difference between knowing where to position, and actually doing it. I learned to position myself according to the wave, and not according to the other surfers in the water. This was a huge revelation and dramatically increased my wave count.
At this remote location, without having brought a photographer, we hired some local kids to shoot photos of our early morning sessions. We may not have the best photos from these sessions, but it was a pleasure to work with and support these kids who are so motivated to learn and photograph surfers. Waking up at 5AM every day, their dedication was surprising and we were sure some of them will one day become professional surf photographers.
We had a plan to head inland in a few days, so we spent as much time in the water as possible before leaving the coast. Every day brought a new swell on the horizon; we were surfing for 4-5 hours a day. Tom and I took full advantage of our final days and were able to enjoy the fruits of all of the hard work and progress we had made over the last month.
Lessons Learned While SUP Surfing: A Look Back & Reflection on Process
We may not have managed to get barreled and come out standing with our fists pumping in the air, but our progress included being well positioned, committing to steeper and later take-offs, and knowing when to abandon ship. Despite growing up windsurfing, during this month in El Salvador while surfing a paddleboard off the Central American coast, I believe the ocean taught me more than ever before.
There was a sense of incompetence and frustration at times, the force of the ocean not allowing me to enter or exit due to its currents and power. There were the nerves and fear of having so many people in the ocean around me, along with the incredible force of the waves during a wipeout, and enduring the longest hold-downs of my life. I have felt all of this converted into courage, confidence, a deeper belief in myself and a desire to take the opportunity to improve at what I love.
In overcoming these challenges, I felt a tremendous sense of satisfaction, experienced the unexplainable euphoria of dropping into big waves and huge gratitude for my partner for motivating me through difficult moments in order to achieve this. These lessons apply not only to surfing, but help me in life in general. It can feel extremely frustrating when something you love to do seems so far out of reach. It can produce so much anger and frustration, if you don’t channel it correctly, you risk losing motivation for your passion. I remember coming back from the water with tears in my eyes, or crying in bed after a bad day. Seeking out the positives helps us to become stronger people, more resilient and ready to try again. Once you surmount a difficult goal, the satisfaction is limitless.
Maybe during this trip to El Salvador I didn’t get barreled, but what I learned from this experience is that it may not be this month, and it may not be the next, but what I now know is that I won’t give up.
So, in the end, it was the perfect trip! Tom & I explored a stunning new country, shared it with the locals, surfed all day long, improved, learned about ourselves, and enjoyed the breathtaking landscapes and sunsets both in and out of the water. This is one of those places we will visit again and again!
Photos: Pablo Morataya, Rogelio Alexander Arébalo, Samuel Rivera
